We are in Tahanea, anchored inside the coral reef, near a small pass where the now abandoned village of Otao once was. ALMOST abandoned, in fact!
We went ashore with the dinghy, leaving it in a calm lagoon which is nearly reaching the sea on the other side, and then we walked along the shore, Baby collecting dead corals and shells, until we reached the old village.
And there we met Leon: he lives here, together with another fisherman (his father?), and they live out of fish and lobster they catch in the pass, few meters away from shore.
They restored a hut, and even have a deep-freezer powered by a portable generator; a group of boobies, most of them newborns, is apparently living there without any fear.
Very kind, Leon, he welcomes us and then gives us directions as to where to anchor inside the atoll; he has a strange look, more japanese than typical polinesian. he speacks some english, and does not give the impression of being a cast-off, the hut is well-kept and they are well equipped, in their simplicity.
The sun is going down and the dinghy is waiting in a far-away place, so we greet Leon and go back, in time to see from our boats the last minutes of the sun behind the palm trees.